Arugula

Arugula is a powerfully charismatic, mustard-like leafy green. Its pungent flavor adds a distinctive energy to any salad, a quality that has endeared arugula to legions of salad aficionados. The combination of various mineral salts combined in arugula, including manganese, calcium, magnesium, potassium, copper, iron, and zinc, contributes to this green’s exceptionally lively flavor.

Arugula’s peppery, woodsy, and earthy flavors explode in your mouth, which may be one reason for arugula’s nickname, “salad rocket,” a corruption of the French “roquette,” which derives from the Old Italian rochetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn is derived from the Latin eruca, meaning “caterpillar,” most likely a Roman reference to the plant’s somewhat hairy stems. In the dialect of southern Italy, the Latin eruca became arugula, the name that traveled across the sea with the huge influx of immigrants from this region about a hundred years ago and became the primary American name for this spicy green, although arugula may also be found under its European aliases, which include rugola, rucola, roquette, garden rocket, Mediterranean rocket, salad rocket, Roman rocket, and Italian cress.

With its small flat leaves on long stems, arugula resembles dandelion greens and is often displayed with its roots attached. A native of the Mediterranean region, arugula grows wild in parts of southern Europe and also in the Far East.

Domestic arugula (Eruca vesicaria sativa) is typically thought of as a salad green, a zestier cousin of lettuce, but arugula is actually a crucifer, a member of the health-enhancing Brassica family, which also includes broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, mustard, and kale. Like other crucifers, arugula’s flavors are both sweetened and enhanced by light steaming or a quick sauté.

Wild arugula is an experience best reserved for true arugula fanatics. It has smaller, finely cut leaves on a willowy stem, small yellow flowers, and a seriously pungent flavor that makes ordinary arugula seem tame. Lightly cooked is definitely the way to go with wild arugula (Eruca sylvatica), as a light steam or sauté softens the bite of this particularly spicy variant.

HISTORY

Arugula’s enlivening properties were noted by the ancient Romans and Egyptians, who considered the green a potent aphrodisiac and consecrated it to Priapus, one of Rome’s minor fertility gods and the protector of gardens and domestic animals. Modern herbalists rarely mention arugula’s aphrodisiac qualities, instead recommending its warming nature as an aid to the fires of digestion.

Arugula has been cultivated by the British for centuries and was brought to America by the colonists, who planted it in the earliest gardens in New England. Today, in addition to its growing popularity in the United States, arugula is a favored green in Italy, France, Spain, Greece, and Egypt. In India, arugula leaves are not used, and the plant is grown primarily for the oil derived from its seeds.

NUTRITIONAL HIGHLIGHTS

Arugula is an excellent source of vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid, manganese, calcium, and magnesium; a very good source of riboflavin, potassium, copper, and iron; and a good source of zinc. A 3½-ounce (100 gram) serving of raw arugula provides 104 calories, 2.3 grams of protein, no cholesterol, 0.7 gram of fat, and 3.7 grams of carbohydrate with 1.6 grams of fiber.

HEALTH BENEFITS

Like other cruciferous vegetables, arugula contains a group of anticancer compounds known as glucosinolates. These compounds exert antioxidant activity, but, more important, they are potent stimulators of natural detoxifying enzymes in the body. For more information on the anticancer benefits of these compounds, see “Broccoli,” page 172.

Like other “greens,” arugula is rich in many essential vitamins and minerals, as well as important phytochemicals, such as carotenes and chlorophyll, making it an excellent source of antioxidants.

HOW TO SELECT AND STORE

Arugula is available all year long, but production peaks from June through December. Arugula thrives in the cooler weather of late spring and fall, which are the best seasons to purchase this tangy green treat since, in the heat of late summer, arugula tends to bolt and to develop a very sharp flavor.

Like all greens, arugula is highly perishable and should be displayed under refrigeration or on ice. Also, like other greens, arugula should be fresh and crisp, especially the stems. The leaves should be dark green, never yellow. Avoid wilted greens or leaves that have brown or yellow edges, or dark or slimy spots.

Arugula should be kept cool and moist and used within one to two days of purchase. It keeps best if the roots are first wrapped in damp paper towels, then the whole bunch is placed in a plastic bag. Alternately, arugula, with its roots attached, can be placed upright in a glass of water (as one would do with a bunch of flowers), covered with a plastic bag, and refrigerated. If the roots have been removed, the best way to maintain arugula’s crispness is to rinse the leaves, spin them dry in a salad spinner, then either wipe dry the outer bowl of the salad spinner, replace the inner bowl containing the arugula, and store in the refrigerator; or rinse the leaves, layer them in the leaves in clean paper towels, place them in a plastic bag, and refrigerate in the crisper drawer until serving time—optimally, later the same day.

Store arugula and other greens away from apples, bananas, and pears since, as they ripen, these fruits give off ethylene gas, which will cause the leaves to develop brown spots, an indication of decay.

TIPS FOR PREPARING

Wash arugula under cold running water and, if it is not organically grown, soak in cold water with a mild solution of additive-free soap or use a produce wash (see page 50); then spin dry in a salad spinner. Arugula grown in summer may have too much peppery fire unless lightly cooked. Wild arugula (Eruca sylvatica) should also be lightly steamed or sautéed to soften its potentially excessive spicy bite. Always taste a little arugula before you prepare it, as it can range in intensity from mild if it is greenhouse-grown or heavily irrigated to extremely peppery if grown in late summer or in a dry year. Adjust the amount of arugula you wish to use to the strength of your particular batch and your palate.

Even if arugula leaves look clean, they should be washed. Cut off the roots, and then, holding the greens by the stems, gently swish them around in a large bowl of cool water. Lift them out, rinse out and refill the bowl with water, and repeat the process until no sand or grit settles in the bottom of the bowl.

To remove remaining water, a salad spinner dries delicate leaves quickly and thoroughly. If you do not have a salad spinner, hold the greens by the stems and shake off excess water, then blot gently with clean paper towels.

The best time to use arugula raw in salads or in tomato dishes is when the serrated leaves measure two to three inches long.

Arugula can be added to soups, steamed or sautéed and served as a side dish, or puréed and added to sauces or used to make pesto. The leaves can also be frozen for later use.

QUICK SERVING IDEAS

Because arugula has such a potent, peppery flavor, it is often mixed with milder greens to produce an interesting, yet balanced salad. Served raw in mixed salads, arugula leaves complement both bland butterhead lettuce and bitter chicories. Arugula can be substituted for virtually any green but is closest in temperament to Belgian endive, escarole, and dandelion greens.

Arugula makes a memorable tossed salad when combined with a soft, buttery lettuce such as Bibb or Boston leaf.

As a salad green, arugula can also stand on its own, holding center stage in dressier salads, such as a combination of arugula, blood oranges, and avocado.

For a spectacular first course at your next dinner party, serve the classic Italian arugula salad with porcini mushrooms and Parmesan cheese. Toss chopped arugula leaves, thinly sliced porcini mushrooms, and walnuts with a balsamic olive oil vinaigrette, then top with shavings of Parmesan cheese and freshly ground black pepper.

Make arugula pesto: Blend together 2 bunches (about 2 packed cups) of arugula with 3 garlic cloves, ¼ cup walnuts, ¼ cup freshly ground Parmesan cheese, ½ cup olive oil, and salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste. Use as a vegetable dip, or, for delectable crostini, use this pesto to top toasted baguette slices and bake at 400 degrees F. for about 5 minutes.

Lightly steamed or sautéed along with some onion or garlic in olive oil, arugula makes a delectable side dish or addition to pasta or rice. For example, toss arugula sautéed in olive oil with just-cooked pasta. Add freshly ground black pepper, then sprinkle with pine nuts and Gorgonzola cheese and serve immediately.

SAFETY

Leafy greens, such as arugula, contain low amounts of oxalate. Individuals with a history of oxalate-containing kidney stones should avoid overconsuming this food. For more information, see Appendix D, page 787.